The House of Creed’s master perfumers invite you on a sensory journey to discover the art of luxury fragrance composition. Explore the perfume pyramid to find out why your signature scent smells different from first spritz to final impression.
Envisage the evolution of your signature fragrance: perhaps a fruity debut of lemon and apricot gives way to a decadent bouquet of fresh jasmine, or warm vanilla dries down to an enchanting base of musk. In luxury perfumery, each scent is intricately layered above another to create an exquisite olfactive chorus. These layers are called notes, and fall into one of three categories: head, heart and base notes. Together these form the perfume pyramid.
Here, The House of Creed’s master perfumers explain this structure of a fragrance, helping you to understand why your go-to scent evolves from the first spray to its final moments.
What is a perfume pyramid?
A perfume pyramid is an olfactory concept that helps to envision the composition of a fragrance. It is divided into three layers: head notes at the tip of the pyramid, heart notes a layer down, and base notes underneath.
The pyramid shape represents the way that a perfume is experienced as it develops. First, you encounter the light, uplifting head notes, such as fresh basil, or zesty mandarin. Next, a layer of heart notes emerges, like soft florals. Over time, this then dries down to a heavier base, such as rich woods or spicy notes. This is the perfume pyramid; its shape visualises the order in which we typically encounter a scent.
The pyramid is one illustration of a perfume’s architecture and evolution, though not all fragrances develop in this way. Indeed, many notes in the pyramid harmonise together. You may detect heart notes at the same time as the head notes; fresh florals like rose, for instance, may appear alongside the lighter profile of lavender. Equally, rich base notes, such as leathery oud or sandalwood, may be present with the first spritz, deepening as the scent dries down.
What are perfume notes?
Perfume notes are descriptors of scents, separated into three categories: head, heart and base notes. These notes work together to create intricate layers that form a perfume’s unique character.
All luxury fragrances are composed of different perfume notes, from the sweet symphonies of violet and iris to the sultry amber accents of musk and benzoin. These perfume notes are structured in the fragrance pyramid according to their qualities, such as their evaporation time and the order in which they are experienced.
Head Notes
Sitting at the tip of the pyramid are the head notes, which are the first aromas identified when a perfume is applied. They tend to be lighter and fresher than other ingredients – think zesty citrus notes like bergamot and lime, or aromatic herbs, like basil and peppermint. Although these notes are the first to unfold, they evaporate the quickest, with a short lifespan of five to fifteen minutes. The head notes then transition smoothly into the heart of the fragrance.
Heart Notes
When the perfume begins to mature, the heart notes are revealed. Found in the middle layer of the pyramid, they are aptly named, as they form the heart of the fragrance and compose most of its scent profile. Typically, heart notes are home to an array of aromatic florals – such as jasmine, rose or lavender – as well as richer fruits and spices, like blackcurrant or cinnamon. Compared to the pyramid’s lighter layer above, heart notes linger on the skin for a little longer, usually lasting between twenty minutes and one hour.
Base Notes
At the base of the fragrance pyramid is the sensual dry-down. Once the head and heart notes evaporate, the intense profile of base notes emerges – think woody, musky and amber scents. Often heavy and rich, they evaporate slowly. Indeed, base notes are used as a fixative in perfumery, allowing the fragrance to linger on the skin throughout the day.
What are popular perfume ingredients?
From revitalising citrus to alluring spice, read on to explore some of The House of Creed’s signature perfume ingredients and uncover where they sit within the fragrance pyramid.
Head Note Perfume Ingredients
Head note ingredients are typically light and fresh, including citrus scents and aromatic herbs. Bold and vibrant, these ingredients provide the all-important first impression.
Bergamot
Bergamot is best known for its characteristic citrus-floral scent, both bittersweet and rich. Inspired by the Italian coastline, Jardin D’Amalfi sparkles with head notes of vibrant bergamot alongside a blend of tangerine and sweet neroli.
Italian Orange
Reminiscent of a fresh summer breeze, orange strikes a refreshing note that can be both sweet and sharp. A revitalising symphony of orange zest, apple and apricot head notes can be found in heavenly Love in White.
Basil
Crisp and aromatic, basil is an enticingly green scent. Discover the herbal freshness of Erolfa with its signature opening notes of basil, mandarin, lemon and lime.
Heart Note Perfume Ingredients
Heart note ingredients are typically home to floral, fruity or spicy scents. These ingredients are full-bodied and aromatic, giving the fragrance its distinctive character.
Iris
Also referred to as orris, iris often forms the heart of floral fragrances, blending sweet, buttery accents with a soft, powdery undertone. One of the most expensive ingredients in modern perfumery, iris is nestled into many a masterpiece from The House of Creed. In Love in White For Summer, Florentine iris is layered with rice and Virginian cedarwood for a powdery, woody Eau de Parfum, while in Millésime Impérial, it is complemented by a salty marine note and a warming base of cedarwood and musk.
Jasmine
Jasmine is revered for its sweet, delicate profile. An opulent heart of jasmine, rose and orris butter dances over a rich vanilla and oud base in Royal Princess Oud a sumptuous creation for her, inspired by The House of Creed’s rich couture heritage. Discover more about the characteristics of floral fragrances here.
Rose
Known for its romantic synergies, rose is one of the most iconic ingredients found in perfumery, cherished for its versatility and ability to take on its surrounding notes, be they powdery, fresh, woody or musky. You will find Bulgarian rose nestled into both male and female fragrances, including Aventus For Her and Viking.
Vetiver
Vetiver is often likened to the scent of fresh and dry grass - green notes, complemented by a warm, earthy and almost woody undertone. Vetiver provides the perfect transition into richer base ingredients whilst harmonising with refreshing head notes. Conjure up the lingering sunshine of late summer with Original Vétiver an earthy, leathery composition with grassy notes, ginger, coriander and white musk that dance around a unique vetiver offering.
Base Note Perfume Ingredients
Base note ingredients are typically woody, spicy and rich. These ingredients give a perfume its depth and work to fix the heart and head notes in place.
Musk
Musk is known for its effortless allure. Often described as earthy, woody and animalic, it is one of the most popular base notes in luxury perfumery, cherished by The House of Creed’s perfumers. The subtle maple sweetness of tonka bean combines with sensual musk in Sublime Vanille whilst a sensual and woody blend of birch, cedarwood, oakmoss and benzoin blend with musk in iconic Aventus.
Oud
One of the most decadent ingredients in perfumery, oud is known for its characteristic intensity and its rich, leathery spiciness. In Royal Oud, notes of angelica seed, cardamon and clove dry down to an intoxicating base of oud, musk, ambergris notes and smoky frankincense. Peruse The House of Creed’s guide to oud in perfumery and its meticulous extraction methods here.
Sandalwood
Sandalwood is a warm, sultry scent, evoking ochre sunsets and golden afternoons. Discover decadent layers of ginger, cinnamon and vanilla coupled with spicy sandalwood in The House of Creed’s Original Santal or an aromatic and refreshing blend of peppermint, geranium, oakmoss and sandalwood in classic fougère, Green Irish Tweed.
All luxury fragrances from The House of Creed are composed of exquisite layers, masterfully crafted by artisan perfumers. Understanding their delicate balance, as visualised by the perfume pyramid, will take every sensory journey to new heights.
